Influencers of Fashion
This was an assignment I completed some research in for my Fashion Forecasting class at Baylor!
Hope you enjoy!
Fashion Movie
In my research of the film’s impact I found a lot about challenging societal standards and social barriers. The film apparently “disrupted the social belief that home, community, and school are the kind of places [teens] are meant to be for a normal teenage upbringing.” It contradicted everything the 50’s stood for which was peacefulness, unity, community, happiness and getting along in a sort of “utopia.” Jim’s obvious “punk” attitude was unheard of in the day and was everything a teen should not be. One article mentions Dean’s role was liked so much because of how taboo it was in the day; it was essentially the first “bad boy teen” role in film. The film combatted society and gender roles and parental issues bringing out the real “teenage rebellion.” This is believed to have guided what is now referred to as the “punk era” (1960’s). Dean was also praised for his flawless execution of the role, and the first time “method acting” broke through conventions of Hollywood. It was seen as authentic pain and emotion. This was the conclusion of one of the articles I read:
“Rebel Without a Cause was a great movie. “It sought to portray the existing decay of youth in middle America, critique parental style, and expose the rift between two generations” (Rebel Without a Cause), and that it did. It’s shocking material and attacks on society’s values (teenage life, gender roles, and community) had a direct impact of the society in which it critiqued. The shock value along with James Dean’s stunning performance as Jim Stark led to a great film of its era.”
James Dean’s look for the role became iconic and inspired many youths to copy the look in order to display their non-conformity; red windbreaker, white tee, and black engineer boots (we have already discussed his influence with jeans and the white tee). This was the new cool—effortless, and at a time when turning heads meant dressing down, not up. Apparently at one point the iconic red jacket was supposed to be khaki but the costume designer fought for it. It is said the jacket also inspired Michael Jackson’s red jacket in “Thriller.” Joseph Abbound’s Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was inspired by James Dean and Ryan Gosling’s character in Drive. Michael Bastian paid tribute to Dean in 2012 by designing a collection of items Dean may be seen wearing today. The film inspired art in an LA exhibit (MOCA) curated by James Franco and sponsored by Gucci and Seven in May of 2012. Louis Vuitton and Missoni inspired in Spring/Summer 2014 menswear runway.
Fashion House
Founder Pierre Balmain was born May 18, 1914 to his mother, a fashion boutique owner, and father, a wholesaler in the drapery business. This made Pierre no stranger to design and fabric movement. Balmain’s interest in couture fashion was inspired by the high-society women he met. Balmain studied architecture at École des Beaux-Arts in 1993, also doing some freelance work with designer Robert Piguet. Pierre then left school to serve in the French air force and army pioneer corps. After the war ended he began his work at Lucren Lelong where at the age of 44, he opened his own fashion house—Balmain. He released his first collection in October of 1945 and first fragrance in 1949. Following WW2, Pierre Balmain was known as “a King of French fashion.” He outfitted stars from Ava Gardner, Bridgitte Bardot, Sophia Loren, Josephine Baker, Vivien Leigh, Mae West, and Dalida, to royals Queen Sirikit of Thailand and Hope Portocarrero, first lady of Nicaragua, and the list goes on. Pierre passed at the age of 68, on June 29, 1982.
Pierre Balmain’s initial style included long bell-shaped skirts with small waists. The first collection was showcased in the November issue of Vogue delivering “beautiful clothes that you really want to wear.” Balmain’s friend Gertrude Stein helped to solidify Balmain’s success through a positive review. Balmain’s look was all about classic silhouettes with detail. It remained modest and simple under Pierre himself, but the style would become sexier and detail-oriented under future creative directors for the house. Balmain himself remained designer from 1945 to 1982. After his unfortunate passing, Erik Mortenson (as Vogue describes “Pierre’s right hand man), took over from 1982 to 1990. Under Mortenson, Balmain preserved the brand aesthetic while still maintaining progressive spirit of creativity. Following Mortenson was Herve Pierre Braillard from 1990 to 1992, and Oscar de la Renta from 1993 to 2002. Oscar was notably the most influential designer to take over the French fashion house. Already a fashion veteran, Oscar brought a famous face to the brand. Oscar de la Renta fit perfectly with his eye for detail, classic silhouettes, and taste for the modest and simple much like Pierre himself. Following Oscar was followed by two others, Laurent Mercier and Christophe Leburg. In 2006, Christophe Decarnin became the creative director of Balmain. Decarnin insisted on “bringing the brand to the 21st century,” using insanely expensive prices, flashy pieces, and bold sexuality. It was said Decarnin was more about maintaining his “star status” than the clothes themselves. Decarnin was replaced by youthful designer Olivier Rousteing. Olivier had been with Balmain since 2009, but became it’s creative director in 2011 at just 25 years old.
Olivier was adopted at just 1 year of age by his mother and father, an optician and a seaport manager. Olivier attended a prestigious fashion school until 2009, when he left to begin working under Roberto Cavalli. After some time with Cavalli, Rousteing left to work for Balmain, where just after 2 years he would become the creative director and make it the booming couture house it is today. At the time, Olivier was a relatively unknown designer. There was quite a lot of controversy surrounding his new appointment. Rousteing himself claims “his age, anonymity, and race led to grumblings of ‘Oh my gosh he’s a minority taking over a French fashion house.’” Olivier liked Decarnin’s aesthetic and ultimately wanted to “orient the label towards finer aspects of French couture.” Despite the criticism, Olivier continued his work and brought a “much needed fresh take on the brand’s aesthetic.” He is also credited with bringing the Asian influence into the clothing (which Asia comprises a huge part of the brand’s buyers). Olivier is inspired by bright, intricate embellishments and beautiful detail “Balmain is not about hiding, it’s about showing” whether there is skin showing or not. Rousteing is obsessed with the “new” which is why his social media is top-notch with over 4 million followers. In order to reach broader audiences and allow those with less disposable income to also get the Balmain experience, Olivier has also done collaborations with H&M, Victoria’s Secret, L’Oreal, and the French fashion house is now looking into hair products. The main target market however is the independent, career-driven man/woman, age 22-40 in the upper class with a large disposable income (since Olivier’s appointment menswear sales have risen to 40%). The designs are more city party girl oriented with bold bright colors and embellishments. Primarily eveningwear for bold, elegant aristocrats, the fashion industry involved, and celebrities. The brand has recently been connected with every celebrity under the sun. It is on every red carpet and in every late night party paparazzi shot. However, Olivier is very particular about those he chooses to represent the brand. Those pictured the most out as well as in campaigns are the Kardashians, Jenners, Hadids, high fashion super models (with celebrity status), and famous performers (singing, acting). A few specific examples would be Cara Delevigne, Joan Smalls, Rihanna, Beyoncé, Justin Bieber, entire Kardashian/Jenner clan, Kanye West, and Hadid sisters, Rosie Huntington-Whitley, Doutzen Kroes, Barbara Palvin, Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima, etc. Some of the most recent and popularized campaigns were the “Balmain Army” and “Power Siblings.”
Balmain’s most recent collection was the Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear line. The major themes were futuristic, radioactive rendition of the 80’s. The apparel included metallic, shimmer, holographic print, denim, leather, sequins, feathers, tulle, patent, etc. One graphic tee covered in sequins said “we are the new generation.” Olivier is all about new, and change, and the embracement of all cultures and ideas. The clothes were a nod to the 80’s with subtle powersuits, bright colors, and the newest emerging trends with the holographic unicorn colors. Olivier intended to pay homage to Pierre with this collection by taking the traditional Balmain silhouettes and modernizing them for the digital generation. It was stunning and so painful to look at knowing I will never afford such beautiful clothes. I would wear every single item from any and every collection created under Rousteing. I was so thrilled to find I got Balmain since this has been my favorite fashion house for years. Looking at it and researching the house and its creative director for the millionth time just out of curiosity gives me so much joy I could cry. This brand and Olivier Rousteing are so beautiful, creative, and exciting and so in-tune with the changes occurring in society they will definitely continue to thrive.
Fashion Capitals
Stockholm, Sweden
The current style in Stockholm, Sweden can be described as “Bohemian femininity.” The word “Lagom” can also be heard up and down the streets of Stockholm meaning “just the right amount.” This word/phrase is used to describe the balance of aesthetics and the mix of hi-lo street style. For example, a current Swedish “It-girl” may be seen wearing a soft, romantic floral dress paired with a chunky pair of athletic trainers. Another example may be pairing a well-tailored blazer with track pants, or an oversized hoodie with flowing skirts and dresses. This reflects the “customer’s desire for apparel from varying fashion concepts.”
A cultural dress item from the country would be the traditional Swedish folk costume. There are two occasions for which the Swedish may be seen wearing this costume, the Midsummer Festival, and to perform traditional folkdances. These costumes are still sold today in which you can buy a cheap version or have one hand-made. The dresses are also “color-coded.” Each region has their own color combination but the “national dress” was created so that every Swede could dress up, the colors are blue and yellow.
A couple of designers and Apparel brands originating from Stockholm are Isabella Idberg, Lars Wallin, and Minimarket. Isabella Idberg studied fashion design in California before she returned to Sweden to finish her studies and later formed her brand. She is inspired by street cultures and dance she has seen in her travels. Idberg designs sportswear but her most recognizable piece is her oversized hoodie. Lars Wallin is a couture designer who established his label in Stockholm in 1990. Some of his designs have even been seen on the Swedish royal family and one for Miss World who won best evening gown. Minimarket was founded in 2006 by three sisters, known for its “modern playful approach to fashion.” It won the H&M best newcomer award in 2007.
A current street style blog for Stockholm is “Streetstyle.” The site features many things for the city such as beauty and lifestyle. However, the fashion streetstyle page is the most fascinating. The site displays weekly streetsyles from a range of bloggers and where you can buy the merchandise.: http://stockholm-streetstyle.com
Style Tribes
Skaters
Skating originated in California when surfing was in its prime and people found a way to surf on land, nicknamed “sidewalk surfing.” It emerged in 1958 Southern California, though originally made by hand it was seen as very dangerous. Skateboards were later mass produced in 1962, but made safest in 1972 with the invention or urethane wheels. In this decade, two types of skateboarding techniques were discovered: vertical skating and street skating. The Zephyr Team, “Z Boys” or “Dogtown Boys” originated the vertical skateboarding and were a group of 12 unsupervised pre-adolescent members (not all boys) sponsored by the local Zephyr surf shop. “Dogtown referred to “depressed lower-middle class” in southern Santa Monica. They went on to “revolutionize the sport of skateboarding” when they realized they could practice in an emptied pool. Although many of the Z Boys went on to become famous skaters, it was Tony Hawk who redefined the potentials of skateboarding by launching himself out of the pool and into the air. Skateboarding was seen as dangerous, careless, and rebellious. The skating subculture saw itself as more creative, free, and valuing risk. With skating there are no referees, penalties, or rules and it can take place anywhere, though they may have to be creative and discover new locations if they are prohibited from skating, adding to their deviant image. The “skater” may be between the ages of 8 and 30, though there is a skater hierarchy, those with more experience were the ones considered “cool” and were probably older. Their dress is loose, comfortable clothing, and worn out sneakers, accessorizing with caps, chains, and belts with large buckles. It was also not uncommon to see underwear because pants were worn low, and worn out with holes.